|
| Crevasse Rescue Part 1 |
Article
Number
:2 |
| Overview: |
The best thing is not to fall in a crevasse. Learning how to spot crevasses, avoid them and the use of proper travel techniques are the key. But... |
General
The components used in crevasse rescue are the same as improvised rope rescue.
However, when a climber falls into a crevasse, the rope stopping the fall will
usually cut deeply through the snow at the lip of the crevasse (in this section,
the part of the rope used to initially stop the fall into the crevasse is called
the belay rope). This makes it difficult or impossible to use the belay rope
to haul the victim out, either due to friction or because it is not feasible
to pull the victim through the overhang.
A section of rope is kept available on the surface for rescue whenever possible.
(The part of the rope used to rescue the victim is called the rescue rope in
this section.) This is accomplished by tying climbers to the rope at appropriate
intervals (see Glacier Travel, page 6-103). The rescue rope can then be passed
to the victim over a prepared section of the crevasse edge so it will not cut
into the snow when loads are applied.
The principles of a crevasse rescue system are:
•
Arrest the fall.
•
Create a rescue anchor.
•
Transfer the load to the anchor.
•
Assess the situation.
•
Attend to the victim.
•
Prepare the edge of the crevasse.
•
Extend the anchor.
•
Rescue the victim. |
|
If Someone Falls In
Arresting the fall
Climbers on the surface hold the load by self arrest, digging in feet, hands,
etc. to stop the falling climber as soon as possible. The guide can now create
a temporary anchor (if necessary) in preparation for building a rescue anchor
or moving forward on the rope with a prusik for self belay if required.
Rescue anchors
Crevasse rescue anchors are generally built at the location of the climber
nearest the crevasse. Building an anchor closer makes more rescue rope available,
however, room must be allowed for the anchor extension and movement of the
rescuer and rescue system.
Creating an anchor behind the climber nearest the crevasse is generally impractical.
If this is necessary (e.g. the climber nearest the crevasse is so close it
is not safe to build a rescue anchor at that point) careful planning for removing
that climber from the rope to a safe position is required.
Load transfer
Once the fall is arrested and an anchor is created, the load of the fallen
climber is transferred to the anchor.
Once the load transfer is complete, backup the prusik by clipping the rope to
the anchor with a locking carabiner and figure 8 on a bight.
Once load transfer and the backup are accomplished, the rescuer(s) can be untied
from the rope. If a belay for rescuer(s) is required during the rescue, a sling
can be tied to the anchor or hitched to the rope and connected to the rescuer's
harness. |
|
Situation Assessment
The guide moves to the edge of the crevasse using a self belay if necessary and probing to find the edge of the crevasse. The condition of the fallen climber and the situation in general is assessed and the next stage of the rescue planned.
It is essential that the guide make contact with the victim as soon as possible and determine what the priorities in the rescue will be. Remember that irreversible damage can occur in four to six minutes if a victim is not breathing.
Expeditionary situations
On expeditonary climbs the victim is often accompanied by a heavy pack and sled,
one or both of which may be attached to the rope. This can complicate crevasse
rescue. It is unlikely the victim can be extricated with the pack and the sled
and it will likely be very difficult to untie the sled and/or pack from the rope.
Because of these complications and weight of the victim’s loads, guides
should consider hauling the victim first, then hauling packs and/or sleds.
This requires victims to unclip from their tie-in point on the rope once the
haul
system has raised them enough to create some slack.
Preparing the crevasse edge
Generally speaking, the edge of the crevasse will have to be prepared no matter
what the next step will be. The exception may be if the victim's life is
threatened; in that case the guide may be justified in descending as quickly
as possible with only rudimentary or no preparations of the crevasse edge.
If there is no snow or the snow at the edge is very shallow and the belay
rope is on ice, no preparation or minimal preparation only may be appropriate.
When preparation is required, the edge of the crevasse is carefully examined
and overhanging snow removed. It may be necessary to create a step or trench
to facilitate moving the victim over the edge. A pack, ice axe, etc. is placed
at the edge and secured. The rescue rope is run over this “padding” to
prevent it from cutting into the snow at the edge when it becomes loaded during
the rescue. The rope supporting the fallen climber is freed from the snow and
placed over the padding at the prepared edge at this time if possible, if not,
this should be done later in the rescue when the belay rope can be freed. Once
the edge is prepared the guide is in a position to:
•
Attend to the victim (if required).
•
Extend the anchor (if required).
•
Implement an appropriate crevasse rescue system.
|
|
|
