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| Glacier Travel Part 2 |
Article
Number
:17 |
| Overview: |
When instructing students in glacier travel/crevasse rescue, recreational techniques for peer group travel are more appropriate, specifically dividing of the rope and carrying of extra rope at front and back of the group. Recreational climbers, especially new climbers should be encouraged to travel in teams of three or more to facilitate ease of crevasse rescue. |
Dividing Rope
In a guided team of 2 the guide normally carries the extra rope. In a recreational team both members carry extra rope.
In a guided team of 3 the guide normally carries the rope . In a recreational team the 3rd, last, person carries the rope.
In a group of 4 there is usually enough rope on the surface to effect a rescue so extra in the pack is not needed. However the guide often chooses to carry extra to make rescue easier if the second falls in. |
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Travelling With a Single Client or Partner
When travelling alone with a single client, guides must consider the magnitude and severity of crevasse hazard in deciding whether travel is appropriate. At the least, the client should be well versed in what to do should the guide fall into a crevasse and/or trained in crevasse rescue techniques.
Use of Knots
If travelling with a single client and there is a significant weight difference between guide and client, tying a few large knots (e.g. butterfly or figure 8 on a bight) on the rope between them at regular intervals increases the chance of successfully holding a fall into a crevasse. This is especially useful when the snow is hard, and/or on steep slopes where self arrest is difficult and a fall into a crevasse may be difficult to stop.
A knot is tied approximately three metres from the client. A second knot is tied three metres from the guide. Then as many more as required about two metres apart between the first two knots.
Note :The use of knots may complicate certain types of rescue. |
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Roped Travel
• Whenever practical, the guide (or most experinced member) leads in glaciated
terrain. This allows for the best routefinding and pacing and minimizes the chance
of a crevasse accident.
• When going downhill in conditions of hard snow, ice, and/or steep inclines,
the guide should consider being above the client(s) if possible. In this case
the leading client will require regular instruction from the guide regarding
route, pacing, etc.
• Everyone carries the equipment required for their role should a rescue
become necessary.
• Route selection, routefinding, and tracksetting are an ongoing process
as snow is a volatile medium and changes constantly. What was safe in the morning
may not be so in the afternoon, etc.
• A minimum of slack rope is kept between climbers.
• The guide must continually check the progress and footing of the clients
when travelling through complex or steep crevassed terrain and adjust the route
and/or techniques/systems being used if necessary.
• Guides must always have rescue and self rescue equipment readily available
in case of a crevasse fall. This generally includes ice screws and crampons as
well as carabiners, slings, and equipment to ascend the rope. Consider carrying
an ascender if working alone and/or if with a single client. This applies in
winter as well as summer.
• When possible, the line of travel is perpendicular to the expected crevasses.
• Shortroping may be appropriate where the risk of falling on steep or icy
terrain is greater than the risk of crevasse falls. |
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