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| Tying Off The Belay |
Artical
Number:31 |
| Overview: |
Tying off the belay is the first part of escaping the system if you need to set up a rescue or deal with a problem that requires both hands and your attention. The second part is a load transfer, from you to the anchor if you are directly incorporated in the belay. |
Blocking the belay - belay plate
If a rope rescue is called for while belaying, both hands will be required and the belay must be blocked before proceeding. |
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Blocking the belay - Italian hitch
Besides rescue, other unexpected events may occur that require you to free yourself from the belay. |
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Load Transfer
Once the belay is tied off, the weight of the fallen climber is transferred to the anchor. The procedure is illustrated with a body belay but is similar with any blocked belay system. For clarity, the anchor is omitted in the following drawings. The main rope should be tied to the anchor as a backup before proceeding to place the load transfer prusik. This has been omitted from the following drawings for clarity. |
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