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Climbing Rappelling and Lowering
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| Guide Rap System |
Artical
Number:30 |
| Overview: |
This is a guiding system designed to safeguard clients on rappels when the guide must go first and is concerned that the client may attach their rappel device incorrectly if required to do it without supervision. This system allows the guide to pre-rig the device. The system could be used with less experienced partners in a recreational situation. Practice first before trying this for real. |
Guide rappels first
There are several variations of this system. The one shown at top left is the simplest, uses little equipment, and requires the least amount of rope; therefore it is the most common.
- The client is clipped to the anchor with a leash as shown. The leash may be clipped to the belay loop of the harness with a locking carabiner or girth hitched.
- A 10 - 30 cm extension is used between the harness and the rappel device. The extension may be clipped to the belay loop of the harness with a locking carabiner or girth hitched. Use a sling that is
distinctive from the backup either in colour or type so they will not be confused.
- If more than one client, they are stacked one below the next, each with their own backup sling and rappel device.
- The guide sets up to rappel and test weights the system before starting to ensure the client will not be unduly loaded when the system is loaded.
- The client may be required to unclip themselves from the anchor unsupervised.
- The leash may be unclipped before the guide leaves if the client is on a good stance and tension
can be maintained throughout the guides rappel.
- The guide belays from below as the client(s) descend.
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Modification
The system at top right can be modified (especially if only one client) to reduce the effect of the rappeller’s weight on the waiting client. The system shown at lower left is useful on steep terrain, where stances are small, or where the waiting client can not be placed comfortably while others rappel. This variation, however, uses significantly more rope, especially if more than one client. |
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When should the guide rappel first
This system is a common method for descending multiple rappels. Guides should consider rappelling first when:
- An anchor does not exist at the next station.
- The route and destination of the rappel are uncertain.
- The client has been trained and has shown competence in rappelling.
- The guide has a means of ascending the rope to the client should a problem occur when the client is rappelling.
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