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Climbing Protection System
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| Anchors Part 1 |
Artical
Number:25 |
| Overview: |
The anchor is the primary connection between the climbing/belay system and the rock. The ACMG differentiates between the anchor and the individual pieces of protection placed or fixed on route to reduce the fall distance. Anchors are comprised of one or more pieces of protection and secure the start and/or finish of a pitch. |
Qualities Of A Good Anchor
Anchors must be able to hold any forces or load that might be created in
a given application. If all else goes wrong and everything else in a protection
system fails,
the anchor must prevent the party from falling off the route.
In all cases, desirable characteristics of an anchor are that it:
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Be able to withstand the potential loads it will reasonably be subjected to.
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Be as simple as possible.
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Be quick to set up and dismantle.
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Require a minimum of equipment.
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Maximize strength by distributing load as effectively as possible.
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Be easy to work with and convenient.
Examples of where anchors are used:
- To fix a rappel line
- Top point of top rope climb
- The belay stations on a multipitch climb |
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Unidirectional Anchors
Unidirectional anchors are built to hold force from only one direction. They
may consist of a single protection placement (single point anchors) or of two
or
more placements connected together (multi-point anchors). Only unidirectional
pieces of protection are required.
A unidirectional anchor is shown at right.
When to use unidirectional anchors
Unidirectional anchors are used when forces on the anchor will be primarily
from one direction (usually downwards):
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Rappelling.
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Top roping.
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Rescues.
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When upward or other forces are so minimal that they will be absorbed before
the anchor is loaded (e.g. belaying leader in broken, low angle terrain). |
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Multidirectional Anchors
Multidirectional anchors are built to hold force from more than one direction,
usually downwards (strongest axis) and upwards (less strength required) although
the ability to withstand sideways or outward force may be required in some circumstances.
They may consist of a single protection placement (single point anchors) or of
two or more placements connected together (multi-point anchors). One multidirectional
piece in a multidirectional anchor is generally considered adequate if the piece
is reasonably strong because the greatest potential forces are practically always
generated in a downwards direction (i.e. a Fall Factor 2 or protection between
the anchor and the leader fails). Forces in other directions are generally moderated
by factors which dissipate forces.
When to use multidirectional anchors
Multidirectional anchors are called for whenever the potential for significant
forces from more than one direction exists:
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Belaying a leader when significant upward force may be generated.
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Belaying a traverse. |
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